"The Bald"

Hemphill Bald stands above Cataloochee Ski Area and Maggie Valley at 5400'. The "Bald' as its referred to locally sits on the south eastern boundary of The Great Smoky Mountain National Park, 800' and a couple miles or so from my front door. This corner of the park is the least visited and has become my little "private North Carolina." It offers numerous tranquil, solitary loops incorporating the Cataloochee Divide trail and Hemphill Bald trail along the southern ridge of the park and the Rough Fork, Big Fork, Caldwell Creek and Boogerman trails scattered in Cataloochee Valley below and north of the ridge. Human sightings area rare and wild life sightings are frequent: bear, wild pig, deer, elk, Turkey and grazing horses and cattle among others. The Bald, in my opinion offers some of the prettiest views in North Carolina.

View into Cataloochee Valley

The entire 800' climb is runnable. The first section heads south away from the house and up a maintained dirt road. Then turns off onto a private drive way where I am often greeted in the morning by barking Bo and Emogene as I pass through. The climb continues up to the left on an old, well traveled logging road, tunneled in spots by rhododendron as you climb through the trees. You will cross a couple creeks as you ascend along the road. Eventually you will pop out into an open grassy meadow, the tree line and fence directly across from you here mark the park boundary. Turn right and climb along a well traveled cattle path paralleling the fence toward the summit. You will be treated with stunning views off to your right towards the south and east as you climb.

Uphill

meadow climb

downhill

At the summit you will find a idyllic little perch, fenced off from the free range cattle in the area. A map here points out the surrounding summits. Views stretch off towards the east and include Moody Top and Purchase Knob among others. It's all down hill from here! Descend toward the east and follow the path as it falls away from the park and the ridge. It can get a little confusing here but if you stay to your right and on the trail you will eventually pop out onto a well maintained dirt road in a private housing development. The road makes for a quick decent, I turn off onto a little side trail back to my house before it links back up with the rode to the ski area.
 5 days up
Day 1 0915 a late start for me. Unusually warm already, 78 degrees. Busier than normal, cars up and down the road. No visit from the dogs this morning. The climb to the meadow was uneventful. Nothing stirring, not even cattle as I turned toward the summit.  Hot. A few cattle spotted among the trees in the shade on my descent, they watched as I passed but didn't move. I passed a group of folks heading up the road on my way dawn and said "good morning." They asked how far it was to the top? "Not far," I responded. Time 56:13
Day 2 0700 significantly cooler than yesterday, a beautiful morning, 62 degrees. Emogene was barking at a couple walking up the road I said "good morning" as I passed, they said nothing. Quiet this morning a light breeze blew high in the trees everything around me felt damp and a bit heavy. The meadow was thick with dew and it shown like frost in the morning sun, it splashed off my shoes as if I was crossing a creek, my feet soaked quickly. The clouds sat low in the valley below me. I stopped at the summit for a picture. Saw no one on my decent. Time 57:44

Smoky Mountains

 Day 3 0700 and 63 degrees. Still this morning, bugs hummed, bees buzzed and birds sang as if in concert and it seemed to get louder as I climbed. A dozen cattle stood still in the meadow below the summit unaffected by my presence as if enjoying the morning and the concert themselves. A doe sprang over the fence into the park a few yards ahead of me and disappeared. I was a little surprised to see a tent at the summit inside the fence. A man was standing there brushing his teeth, we exchanged pleasantries. I passed up and over the summit and descended quickly back to the house. Time 55:03
Day 4 0445 I groggily rolled out of bed at 0430. 64 degrees, a light swirling breeze made it comfortable. Dark. I spooked the horses and they thundered in a stampeded off to my left as I ran up the road. No greeting from the dogs this morning. Birds fluttered on perches here and there as I chased the orb of my head lamp up the road. The meadow was thick again with dew, stars shown beautifully from above and heat lightening danced in the east as I approached the summit. No wild life not even a flash from the eyes of grazing cattle. Fresh manure landmines where the only evidence they existed in the area. Time 57:27
Day 5 0445 woke before my alarm. It felt cooler than the 64 degrees on the thermometer. It had rained, dark clouds blocked any glimpse of the stars. Nothing seemed to move today, wisps of clouds danced across the trail in front of me as I climbed the logging road to the meadow. Pigs had left a large swath of freshly turned earth in the meadow half way to the summit. The wind was chilling. The light in the east appeared like the small strip of light along the floor of a closed door when approaching it from a dark hall way. I didn't see anything on my descent either, it was a little eerie. Time 57:13
**I hope you get a chance to experience "The Bald." Remember, please respect the wild and domestic animals in the area and the property owners who's property you will traverse to access this NC wonder.

The Test

I put myself through a little test while on vacation. My goal was to run/workout everyday we were gone. Not an easy task as I discovered, not any easier than getting out when at home. Our vacation as most vacations are was filled with wave upon wave of food, drink and activity.
First stop (2 days) Mount Pleasant, South Carolina where we visited a friend from collage and her family. By night we played catch up, went out to eat and had cocktails. By day, non stop tours of the area, Fort Sumter, the air craft carrier USS Yorktown and a fantastic Vietnam War exhibit at Point Pleasant Park. We didn't scratch the surface of what's to do in the area but would love to get back and try. I was up at the crack of dawn and ran both days. The weather was hot, very hot and an early start was prudent. I enjoyed exploring the neighborhoods, trails and flat roads of the area. Lizards skittered about in front of me as ran. On one occasion a beautiful golden eagle screeched at me as I ran along a deserted golf course as if it was cheering me on. It made me think of my Dad, and put a smile on my face. Slipping into the pool upon my return each morning was glorious.

Chasing Shadows

Stop two (3 days), we met family in St. Augustine, Florida. I was excited to visit St. Augustine, it is the oldest in America and home of the fountain of youth. Florida in July is hot and I felt like I was part of an experiment determining the effects of heat and dehydration on the human body. I ran and ran early along with dozens of others. The neighborhoods, streets and beaches of the area where a thrill to explore, classic old homes and modern wonders. Sun rise provided stunning combinations of purples, orange, pinks and grays with majestic cloud formations like those surrounding planet Bespin and Lando Calrissians, Cloud City in Star Wars. Streets umbrellaed by moss strung trees kept the direct sun at bay. I developed the habit of following the shade of the trees along the road as if my life depended on it. We toured, ate and drank as if it was possible to fit everything St. Augustine had to offer into our stay and soaked up as much sun SPF50 lotion would allow at the beach or by the pool.
Our final destination, Orlando, Florida and DISNEY! Our itinerary was chalk full of five fun packed days at Epcot, Magic Kingdom, Animal Kingdom and Hollywood Studios. Getting in my run on this leg of the journey was going to be a challenge. Walking around four different parks, rides, waiting in line, back across the park another ride, dinner then fireworks was a work out itself. And it was hot, when the doors of the hotel open the heat hits you as if you are walking into a convection oven, you start sweating as you cross the threshhold. It was amazing how consuming the heat was that early in the morning and sweat rolled off me throughout my run as if I had just steeped out of the shower. Reentry into the hotel was just as polarizing, like walking directly into the sub artic from the desert, chills. Fortunetly our hotel featured a state of the art fitness center rivialing any New York Sports Club and with the company of my daughter I avoided the oven for a few days of our visit. Disney has thought of everything however and along with maps of their parks they have running trails mapped out and my desire to explore outweighed the discomfort of the heat. 

Boardwalk Sun Rise

Back in North Carolina it has been 70 degrees, cooler over night. In fact it was a little chilly on my run this morning and wish I had put on a different shirt. Quite a change from last weeks runs on the surface of the sun, I'll take it. I passed The Test, whats next?

SCAR~DNF

• I did NOT finish my SCAR (Smokies Challenge Adventure Run) attempt in May.
• I am NOT happy about it.
• I WILL make another attempt and finish.
• I have avoided writing about it but have continued to think about it so here are some take away's.

Failures:
1) Poor Planning
Traditionally I am up and out early but for this attempt I chose to start in the evening. My theory was that it would be more convenient for my wife who had been tasked to get me to the start and from the finish of my escapade. The late start was foolish. I started at the southern boundary of the park at 1900 after a full day of activity, which included vehicle shuttling and travel. I am typically in bed at 2100 so seven hours into this adventure I was already stumbling along the AT in the dark like a zombie chasing the bobbing light of my head lamp down the trail.
2) Check Your Gear
The first section of  trail climbs 4.5 miles in 1700', up steep switchbacks to Birch Spring Gap. I felt fresh and was moving along pretty well. However, the 3rd pull from the tube of my hydration pack reveled a big problem, "it was empty". I had filled it with Tailwind before leaving the house and throwing my pack into the back of the car for the drive to the trail head. The 70oz bladder had emptied itself in the car before I had taken my first step. I had two additional 24oz water bottles with me and according to the millage card I had put together, had multiple locations to obtain water along the way. I would be ok.
3) Where is the water
I traveled nearly 20 miles before finally securing water. Which would not have been a big deal if my bladder had not bled its contents all over the back of my wife's car. I did not locate water in the couple locations referenced having it and others (Shelters) where full of sleeping hikers and I did not feel it was appropriate to be rooting around their campsites in the dark in search of water although in hindsight I probably should have. When I did finally find water I sat in the dark getting my fill for an eternity.
4) Bugs
Yay Bugs! At one point during my preparation I had considered taking bug repellent but for some reason never did more than that. I may have come to the conclusion that bugs would not be an issue in May or it simply slipped my mind as I considered other logistics. Either way I dealt with bugs and it was a nuisance until it finally cooled down enough for them disappear. Admittedly this was not a Maine black fly kind of nuisance but enough to make me wish I had repellent. In reality I was just feeling sorry for my self, thirsty and tired.

Successes:
1) Resupply vehicle
 My wife had recommended shuttling a vehicle to Newfound Gap (the only road crossing of the AT in the park) prior to my departure so I would have access to resupply or in the event I bailed I could get home without any trouble. This was the best decision of the entire trip as you all know I bailed and was able to sleep in the car for awhile before heading home with my tail between my legs and without having to interrupt the families day. *Thank you to my wife  (Shelle) who over the years has supported countles of my adventures from Colorado to Alaska and along the AT from Georga To Maine.
2) 40+ miles covered
I covered 40 miles and despite the water issue and the start time did pretty damn well really.

The SCAR

My Appalachian Trail story began 40 years ago when my Uncle David first shared stories with me about his experiences along the trail, I was probably six, maybe older. I remember listening wide eyed and in awe. Later at an AT crossing somewhere in Virginia on a summer tour of Civil War battle fields with my Dad and Uncle Taylor, I recall fondly us considering what it would be like to walk to Maine from where we stood. I wondered, "could I". In 1995 I somehow convinced my wife to through hike the 2,180+ mile length of the trail from Georgia to Maine. That trip has been over for years but recoverable memories sneak back time and again reminding me of our adventure. In the last 14 years I have lived with in a few miles of the trail allowing for frequent outings with our old friend. Re-hiking countless sections along the AT, introducing the trail to our kids.

There is  a mystique about the Appalachian Trail that few appreciate and even fewer understand. It somehow has the ability to become a part of you. It certainly holds a special place in my heart. The wilderness experience it allows, its accessibility and its history: first conceived in 1921 by Benton Mackaye. Makes the Appalachian Trail the first and a stand out, long distance trail.

Since relocating to North Carolina I have aspired to traverse the 72 mile section of the AT through the Smoky Mountain National Park in one push. This section of trail is technical, with a lot of steep rocky climbs and descents on single track along the spine of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Starting at Fontana Dam at the southern end of the park the trail climbs 2000' in the first 4 miles. Continuing north towards Davenport Gap at the northern end of the park along Interstate 40 the route has an elevation gain over 18,000', 12,800' of that in the first 40 miles. Food and gear must be carried with you and water pulled from streams along the way. The only bail-out or support possible is at mile 40 at Newfound Gap where the trail crosses US441 inside the park.

While planning my attempt to cover the 72 mile section of the AT I discovered that completion of the route is not really a unique feet. Know as the SCAR (Smokies Challenge Adventure Run) dozens of people have navigated the route over the years. The Fastest Known Time (FKT) website state the Vicki Johnson first traversed the route in the mid 80's in under 20 hours. There are also a handful of documented crossing in the mid 90's. Most recently David Worth set the supported SCAR/FKT in 20011 covering the distance in 14h 40m 22s and in 2014 Billy Simpson set the double SCAR standard in 3d 7 h 25m. Additionally, more than a dozen people have completed the route in less than 24 hours including ultra running Legend David Horton.

I am not the same caliber of runner that David Horton is, and I certainly wont be challenging David Worth's SCAR/FKT when I set off Friday May 13, 2016 from Fontana Dam on my SCAR attempt, but I've got to tell you if I can cover the distance in 24 hours or less I will be ecstatic. Honestly, I will be thrilled to make it to Davenport Gap on my own power, I will certainly give it my best shot. I will let you know how it turns out.

When a race is not in the cards

We had a rocky start to the 15/16 ski season. And the start of the ski season typically marks the end of my focused training. Over the years I have learned to accept this and the fact that a late winter early spring race just is not possible for me. I've learned not to stress over it and accept my lot. I can race summer and fall races.
OK STOP! that is a load of BS!! This forced acceptance actually really bothers me. Over the years as the ski season draws near I always think, "maybe this year?' There are a lot of early season races I would love to participate in.
In the end it just doesn't happen.
However this year Mother Natures hand that so stifled skiing in the east led me to consider "this could be the year." This could be the year I would participate in Western North Carolina's iconic Mount Mitchell Challenge held at the end of March. I had volunteered the previous couple races and Jay Curwan, the race director had awarded me an entry.
The atypical start to the ski season allowed me to keep up with my millage and work in some focused strength work the challenge required.

As bad for business the weather was I came into the New Year more fit than I typically am, excited and feeling great. I should have known better. The ski season began to gain momentum in the middle of January. I missed a few critical runs but was able to continue running, focus on leg strength, log tons spin bike miles and a few after hours laps, skinning up the mountain. I was in uncharted territory at this point but feeling pretty comfortable with my training.

 "An impossibility taunts us until we attempt it just because its there." George Mallory

Running a late winter-early spring race had been taunting me for years. It seemed this was going to be the year. The weather had been cooperating, business levels where cooperating, the STARS aligning. Suddenly, the wheels came OFF! A perfect way to describe when everything is cruising along, firing on all cylinders - then out of left field- the wheels come off! BAM! I got sick, work had gotten extremely busy and life just got in the way and I couldn't recover.
Its just not in the cards! Sooo, I didn't race and that was awfully disappointing. Goals not only missed but never attempted. I was distraught, pitiful really. I got over myself, eventually, but it took me months to write this. I eventually realized that my effort was not for not. I did in fact achieved number of successes despite not running the "Challenge."
1) I am more fit than I typically am this time of year
2) I learned to test a number of different training techniques allowing me to be more well balanced
3) Late winter and spring races are just not for me, I got it
4) Realistic, achievable goals are the best goals!
Now that all that is off my chest I plan on running the 70 miles through the Smokey Mountain National Park along the Appalachian Trail in May. I will let you know how that goes.

Test Yourself

Most people have trouble getting out the door this time of year and a lot is written about the subject. Often the weather is to blame for holding one back. When it comes to not getting out who wants to run in the rain, when it is bitter cold and dark when they can stay in a warm and cozy bed?

It is suggested to change up your workouts, learn the keys to winter training, try a little cross training, find a dry road and run on it, set a goal and work to achieve it. But.....will these tactics get you out?
Goal setting and achieving for that matter is not as easy as it would seem and there is a lot written about this topic as well.
Choose a goal and tell people about it. This is supposed to make you accountable to yourself for reaching your goal. Will this alone help you get out the door on the worst days?
Develop a plan to help you achieve your goal. You still have to execute your plan and that means getting outside. Is this enough?
I believe that discipline is the missing ingredient required to achieve your goals and getting out the door anytime of the year in any weather.

The Test:
The moment the alarm goes off begins the test. The test is not a complex one but it sets the tone for the rest of the day, for your training. When your alarm sounds do you get up and out of bed, or do you hit snooze, roll over in comfort and drift back to sleep? If you have the DISCIPLINE to get out of bed- you pass the test. If your are mentally weak at the moment you hit snooze and roll over and let weakness keep you in bed, you fail the test.
Though it seems small, that weakness translates to more significant decisions. Not getting up and getting out, blaming the weather and other things beyond our control. If you exercise discipline it will translate to all elements of your life...... allowing you to achieve your goals. Allowing you to be the best you can be. It is the difference between being good and exceptional. Are you disciplined?

Building Habits

Habits, good and bad, we all have them. If you think about it we are little more than the sum of our habits and nothing else. Habits are our brains internal productivity drivers, a network of routines and behaviors, developed over time, that we carry out with little or no thought what so ever.

"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence then is not an act , it is a habit." Aristotle

Consider your own habits for a minute; making coffee in the morning, checking Facebook, turning on the TV, pouring a glass of wine, brushing your teeth. These are all habits you have created over time, they are done without a lot of mental preparation. You do these things because it has become part of your routine:good or bad.



According to the mayo clinic exercise is vital to living and sustaining a healthy mind and body. It not only helps control weight, combat disease and other health conditions it also improves mood, relieves stress and promotes better sleep habits.

Charles Dickens in his essay "Night Walks" said "the sum of the whole is this: walk and he happy, walk and be healthy."

 So why haven't we all jumped up off the couch and started getting active?

The answer, SIMPLE.  It takes work, becoming healthy and fit doesn't happen fast enough. It is a life long commitment between you, your brain and your body to create a sustainable exercise habit and old habits die hard.

Here are a few tips to get started:

1) Start small and slow
Exercise doesn't have to be extreme. Start with something simple like a daily walk. This will get      

you out the door and moving, opening the door to other fitness goals. Taking the first steps leads to 

the next step.

2) Choose a time and stick with it
Find a time in your day that works best for you to commit to you and your health. Exercising at the
same time every day will become routine (like brushing your teeth) making it easier to stay
consistent.

3) Make your health a priority
People who exercise daily make better choices when it comes to their health. A short walk can
lead to better eating habits and a healthier life style.

4) Stop making excuses
Don't make excuses about not having enough time. There are 168 hours in a week. If you sleep 56
of those hours and work 40 of those hours there are still 72 hours to play with even if you have
to run the kids around.You can accomplish anything if you set your mind to it

The biggest key to creating and maintaining an active life is to understand it is a lifelong process. Becoming healthy and fit doesn't happen overnight. Set some goals even if it is just loosing weight, making it a habit. Working towards that goal will not only help you get fit quicker right now, it will ensure you make your health and fitness a priority, FOR LIFE!